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While recently travelling through picturesque Meghalaya, some spontaneous planning resulted in a visit to the border town of Dawki. Located in the Jaintia Hills, the Dawki-Tamabil border crossing between India and Bangladesh is now used to ferry across both passenger and cargo. Add to this the scenic drive to Dawki and the trip is certainly worth the effort.
I had been to the Haridaspur-Benapole Indo-Bangla border. But the Dawki-Tamabil crossing was a revelation. Barring a small nullah and some stone pillars, there was nothing to suggest this was indeed an international border. There was no border fencing in sight. In fact, security presence along the stretch seemed minimal and the stationed BSF jawans implied that this was a friendly border. All of this made me happy. I have always advocated greater commerce and people-to-people contacts between India and Bangladesh.
That said, the relaxed atmosphere at the Dawki border — which also has the magnificent Umngot river running from the Indian side to the Bangladeshi side — made me wonder about undocumented, illegal migration. As I was sitting at a roadside dhaba just a few hundred metres from the border checkpost waiting for my morning breakfast, two Bengali women with baskets of fish came up to the dhaba owner. It soon became clear from their accent that they were Sylheti from the Bangladeshi side.
When she asked them how they had come across, they simply said they were locals and no one would stop them. Later while taking a boat ride on the glass-like, emerald green waters of the Umngot — the water is so clear that one can see the river bed 12 feet below — our Khasi boatman provided further evidence of intermingling of the border populations. For when we finished our ride and handed him a Rs currency note, he coolly walked over to the Bangladeshi side of the river to get change.
