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Waves rolled through the night, pitching the ship from side to side. From the bridge deck, the white sand beaches of the Exumas glowed blue-white under the starlight, and the rising moon spread a thin layer of silver over the sea.
A few miles north, toward our destination in Nassau, lightning flickered. I was on a freighter heading through the Bahamas. Amidships, a foot crane was lashed to a steel boom crutch. Tucked away in private cabins behind the wheelhouse, two dozen passengers slept soundly.
The ship was one of 15 government-contracted mail boats that deliver provisions, passengers and a few adventurous tourists to the Out Islands, the hundreds of remote islands beyond the tourist and commercial centers of New Providence, Grand Bahamas and Paradise Islands. My boat was one of three mail boats that I took on a six-day, mile journey last spring to explore the Bahamas the way Bahamians do. Mail boats have been the primary means of interisland travel for locals for more than a century and seemed the perfect way to do it.
There are no tour guides or lido deck, and the nighttime entertainment consists largely of gazing at a starry sky over the drone of a diesel engine. Like any respectable seafarer, I kept a log. What follows is an account of the journey, which covers towns, bars and beaches largely uncharted by guidebooks. The Out Islands are made up of more than islands, many of them belonging to particular archipelagos or chains. Each chain is served by its own mail boat system, and because I was vacationing with friends in the Exumas, I started my exploration there.
